Crossing the Nullarbor – our adventure from Western Australia into South Australia

Nullarbor trip

On the end of our Big Lap, on limited time, we traversed The Nullarbor in two days. Kids were due back at school, we had businesses to run but were so keen to experience this famed road trip.

We left Esperance and the beauty of Cape Le Grand National Park, through Grass Patch and the heart of Mallee Country.

The Nullarbor Plain begins in Norseman, Western Australia – we saw camels here, which was pretty cool. “The Nullarbor” is an 1100km route. Here’s where we stopped:

Balladonia was a lunch stop with a pretty multicoloured picket fenced playground. Oh, we were so grateful for those playgrounds along the way!

After 145 km of straight road, it was time for a petrol top up in Caiguna. Most of the road houses offer meals and camping – some are hotels, as well.

The sunset was beautiful – we taught the boys how to play the card game of patience and sudoku.

830k and Jallah Rockhole in Western Australia was our free camp for the night. (Pet friendly, toilets, fires allowed at this overnight rest area.) We gobbled up sausages, onion and garlic gravy and the rest of our veggies – and apple pie for our last night in WA.

We woke up to Heatley’s birthday on the Nullarbor, we had celebrated in Esperance with a night of Chinese and the kid’s first deep fried ice cream. Mundrabilla Fuel Stop was our first petrol top up for the day.

Through the border and Border Village (glad we’d used up the fruit and vege!)…

We loved the lookouts over the Bunda Cliffs! There are a several designated camping areas listed in CAMPS along here – definite overnighters for our return.

(Update August 2024 – Pls note that camping at Bunda Cliffs is now CLOSED due to dangerous slippage of the cliffs)

We said hi to the whale…

and topped up with more fuel at the famed Nullarbor Road House.

A highlight was seeing the Southern Right Whales and calves at the Head of Bight and Great Australian Bight Marine Park. There is a charge for entry, pay at the visitor centre.

Before, the Bight was just something I had memorised at school. We always love travelling on roads we’ve never been, but this was beyond my expectations.

Whales were playing not far from the lookout. Just magnificent! Our whole family was awestruck.

We had been on a whale watching tour out of Hervey Bay, but to see them so prolific and from the shore was out of this world.

The views in either direction are amazing!

The best time for whale watching is June to October. We were here on the horse’s birthday – August 1 – what a great present for Heatley. We were lucky to see calves as well at this time.

Our toasted tinned pineapple sangas were devoured between Yalata and Nundroo and we passed by Ceduna, considered the end of the Nullarbor. Streaky Bay on the Eyre Peninsula and oceanside, was our caravan site for the night.

No wonder The Nullarbor is one of Australia’s must-do routes. Next time, instead of a 1500+ km 2-day adventure, I hope we can dawdle, and experience more of those Nullabor sunsets, fireside. Perhaps even have a crack at the world’s longest golf course!

Have you travelled The Nullarbor? Which direction do you prefer and what are your favourite camps?

Find these sites and more nearby in the CAMPS guide books, CAMPS Pendium boxed set and CAMPS App.

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