Is Bitter Better? Mataranka Vs Bitter Springs in Northern Territory

By Michelle Gilmore
August 28, 2024
Camping, Northern Territory

Mataranka Springs and Bitter Springs are two hot spring fed pools located in Elsey National Park, in the Roper Area of Northern Territory. They really are a must see and stop if you are travelling the Stuart Highway.

However, both have their attributes, each has a caravan park nearby, and another down the road. If you are limited on time, here’s what you need to know…

Bitter Springs

The first springs you will come to travelling from the north. It is an easy flat walk from the Bitter Springs Cabins and Camping to the site. There is a day use area further down from the caravan park turn off where you can park your vehicle, and it is just 230 m further into the pools.

The thing I loved most about the pool is that you can float down to the end, and hop out, walk up a concrete path (easy on bare feet, and only a couple of minutes) and step back in to float again. Give yourself some time – we only floated down three times, and were away for one and a half hours. That did include chatting along the way to other floating travellers! Remember to watch out for logs.

Bitter Springs would be at least three or four times longer than Mataranka Pool. You don’t need a noodle – my last morning I just floated on my back and front (although watch out for submersed logs).

Access is via stairs and a ladder at water level. Or stairs at the other end. There is an alternative path (on the left side of the carpark) that takes you to the stairs midway along the springs, you can keep walking this way to the end, but it is not kind on bare feet.

Although there are stairs into the springs, Bitter Springs has much more natural surrounds.

Mataranka Thermal Pool

To reach Mataranka Springs you need to park at the entry to Mataranka Homestead, take a short walk through the caravan park (past the terrific beer garden and bar) to the National Park entrance. The baths are close to the entrance. Stop and check the replica homestead made for the “We of the Never Never Movie” beside the carpark.

This pool has man made surrounds, but better access into the water. It is much smaller than Bitter Springs.

The Verdict

Water clarity – similar, absolutely crystal clear – especially before too many people are there. It is really easy to see under the water as you float!.
Warmth – both springs are not hot, around 34 degrees, refreshing even though it was 35 degree days when we visited. They are pleasantly warmer than a standard swimming hole.
Smell – we noticed a slight sulfur smell only once, it wasn’t an issue for us.
Access – Mataranka wins here, the steps were excellent for dodgy knees. There is even seating around the side. Access is still good at Bitter springs, you just have to heave yourself up to the bottom step a little. The walking trails to both attractions are flat, easy, and short.
Facilities – there are National Park toilets, BBQ and picnic table on site at Bitter Springs, but Mataranka has a bar and live music (and amenities for day trippers as well).
Natural Surrounds – Mataranka has more walks compared to Bitter Springs, however the water is like a pool with a natural bottom. Bitter Springs did have a little “clumps of greenery” floating from swimmers disturbing the natural vegetation. Both have beautiful plants and turtles.
Floating factor – Bitter Springs was a winner here, and really for me, the BEST experience in a mineral spring EVER (so far). I just loved floating down looking through the water and at the overhanging greenery.

Busy factor – I feel this is so subjective, and can really influence your whole experience! Since we camped near Bitter Springs, we visited several times so saw the springs when it was quieter. Both are popular spots. To be fair, since Bitter Springs is longer, more people can be in there without it being overwhelming.

Our advice is to visit both! They are both very different in their own ways, and each have their pros and cons.

Just a Note

If there has been extreme flooding, the pools may be closed to swimming. This area is crocodile country, so only swim where signs say you can! I’ve read twice in the last decade, Bitter Springs has had a saltwater crocodile removed, that also happened to us at NT’s Berry Springs. Always be crocwise.